Every now and then, I'll still pull up an edge because I started shaping too soon.ĥ) If you buy the Bondo "professional" in the metal tube, don't squeeze the tube. I sometimes get in a hurry to this day, though I have a pretty good idea of what I can get away with. It's tempting to start shaping when it's still a little soft, but that will invariably pull up edges rather than allow a nice feather. It's kinda counter-intuitive, but the stuff sticks better the longer you leave it alone. It won't stick properly.Ĥ) Even though it starts to kick pretty quick, it can take 20 minutes to an hour before it's ready to sand. This can be a pain in hot weather, as the stuff starts to kick pretty fast, and you literally have only a couple of minutes to spread it.ģ) Once it's started to kick, stop trying to spread it any more. And very often, adhesion to primer isn't very good.Ģ) There is most definitely a sweet-spot for mixing, and thorough mixing is very important. For the 2-part putties, I like a 180-grit sanded surface for best adhesion on models.
And there's no limit to the kind of custom stuff you can do with it.ġ) Whatever you're trying to stick it to needs to be clean, and sanded thoroughly, so that no shiny spots remain. This may all sound like it's a real PITA, but after working with the stuff a few times, it will seem easy, and eventually become second nature. Here's a list of tricks that might make it easier for new users. Using this stuff on a model is a lot like using bondo on a real car, but there are some differences, too. I've been doing high-end bodywork on real cars for decades, and I got pretty familiar with using 2-part catalyzed fillers.
#Bondo glazing and spot putty crack#
You will still most likely need several applications to get a perfect shape and surface, but it goes a WHOLE LOT FASTER than the old-school stuff.and it doesn't crack and fall off years later. There is a little learning curve, but once you get the hang of it, you can do heavy fills with no waiting for it to shrink like you'll have on old-style lacquer putties. Recently, I've seen a few people mention they're not having good results with this stuff.
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